I couldn’t resist going for a swim in these inviting conditions at Port Campbell. The water was cold, clear and calm. The light north/north-easterly wind was offshore. The Southern Ocean was at rest. I usually keep a wetsuit and goggles in the back of the car when driving along the west coast in case the opportunity for a swim arises. While the only shower on offer after the swim was a cold shower on the foreshore, lunch at nearby restaurant Forage on the Foreshore more than compensated. As always, I ordered the French Toast. It is described in the menu as ‘Thirty-Two 80 Specialty Bakery Japanese milk loaf, caramelised bananas, Istra bacon, Schulz’s Organic Dairy quark cheese, Otway Walnuts.’ I can think of no better dish after a cold ocean swim. It is hearty, tasty and fortifying. This is a big call, but if forced to choose between a long hot shower or FotF’s French Toast after a cold mid-winter ocean swim, I’d go for Sam’s French Toast. The coffee is also excellent. Thanks Sam and Laura. The Port Campbell jetty was deserted save for Liz, Magpie and a few fishermen. Even inside the bay. this water feels oceanic when swimming in it. This is not surprising I suppose as this bay’s latitude is 36.6° south of the equator and the end of winter is some time off yet. For a vessel sailing due south out the mouth of this bay the first landfall would be Antarctica. Ocean swimmer’s perspective when approaching Port Campbell jetty.Magpie was concerned for my well-being and apparently didn’t take his eyes off me while I was in the water. Liz appears less concerned. Magpie is only 18 weeks old, and his ocean swimming training has not yet commenced. There was a light current going seaward on the eastern side of the bay which carried me the last few metres to the jetty as I floated on my back to take this shot. The seabed close to the cliffs on the eastern side of the bay has extensive beds of kelp. Swimming underwater between these plants is like flying slowly through a stand of trees. I would love to snorkel amongst giant kelp ‘forests’ in Tasmania where giant kelp can grow to 45m in length. Along the Great Ocean Road lengths around 10m are more common. (Source: Godfrey & McPhee, ‘Shore Life of the Great Ocean Road’, Atoll Editions 2022, at page 67). Over/under shot approaching the Pt Campbell jetty.Where there are currents the kelp is a handy ‘windsock’. When I was swimming back to shore a large flock of silver gulls flew overhead. They took off from the western end of the beach, did a noisy loop which included a low pass over me then flew back to the beach and landed. Perhaps I should have increased my leisurely stroke rate so I looked more like a vibrant and sizeable sea creature and less like burley or a decomposing old seal. Port Campbell surf life saving clubhouse is on the far left of this image. Unusual seabird activity on or near the surface of the sea is a sign not to be ignored when swimming in the ocean, but on this occasion I was confident their behaviour did not signal any potential threat in the water. I was reliably informed that a week earlier there had been a southern right whale spending time in the bay. Oh to have been on the spot with a wetsuit that day. In Victoria a swimmer is legally permitted to swim near a whale, but must not approach any closer than 50m. The whale of course can swim as close to a swimmer as it wishes and a swimmer in this situation is not in breach of the 50m rule.Cliffs west of Port Campbell. It is rare to see the Southern Ocean almost completely at rest. Through the spindly fronds of the plant on the right a small white boat is visible. This was an abalone boat – further photos below. The Twelve Apostles photographed from a headland 11kms away.The Twelve Apostles photographed from the same headland 11kms away, with my 150-600mm telephoto lens at full stretch.
Abalone fishermen earn their money.
Logans Beach near Warrnambool is the location of a whale nursery. The photo shows the coast immediately west of Logans Beach.The shore break at Logans Beach is popular with surfers. This young fellow, dressed for the cold ocean water, was enjoying non-stop glassy little waves like this as daylight faded. The lineup wasn’t crowded. Southern right whale mother in the foreground with her young calf swimming close beside her. Only a glimpse I know, but seeing even a glimpse of a healthy wild adult whale and calf in the Southern Ocean with my own eyes is something I invariably find mesmerising and satisfying. The quiet whale watchers present with me at Logans Beach when I took these photos seemed similarly rapt.Mother and calf again.Head-on shot of the mother which gives some indication of size. The small dark object in the upper centre of this photo is the southern right whale pair heading off to the east. It was a very peaceful scene.
John, it is hard to me to believe those conditions are possible at Port Campbell. What a stunning contrast to the maelstrom we visited the day the ShipWeck series swim was cancelled. You couldn’t resist, of course, and your swim read as perfect karma. We need those precious kelp beds more than ever. Thanks for bringing this to light for your readership.
I know you to be good on the fang and the Forage Fresh Toast was suitably capitalised. Well done on itemising the provenance of ingredients. A big issue of mine. You know that the Japanese love the milk in their bread, but also the sugar hit. An ocean swimmer’s reward.
Yes, it certainly is a contrast to some of the conditions we have seen there. I understand there are larger kelp beds in deeper water below the cliffs near the western headland at the entrance to the bay. Inspecting those solo would require one of these rare calm days.
South 
Great story John
and really wonderful pics, particularly under above water near port cambell jetty.
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Thanks Bruce. As you have probably gathered, Port Campbell bay is a favourite location of mine on the west coast.
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John, it is hard to me to believe those conditions are possible at Port Campbell. What a stunning contrast to the maelstrom we visited the day the ShipWeck series swim was cancelled. You couldn’t resist, of course, and your swim read as perfect karma. We need those precious kelp beds more than ever. Thanks for bringing this to light for your readership.
I know you to be good on the fang and the Forage Fresh Toast was suitably capitalised. Well done on itemising the provenance of ingredients. A big issue of mine. You know that the Japanese love the milk in their bread, but also the sugar hit. An ocean swimmer’s reward.
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Yes, it certainly is a contrast to some of the conditions we have seen there. I understand there are larger kelp beds in deeper water below the cliffs near the western headland at the entrance to the bay. Inspecting those solo would require one of these rare calm days.
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